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Research: Mono-Material Library x Schoenkwarteir | Sophia Fenlon + Stephanie Rolph

6 October 2024 Awards / Company Profile / Events / Exhibitions / General / New weave developments / News / Reseach / Weave Designer Profile
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Mono-Material Library: Designers Sophia Fenlon + Stephanie Rolph

What is the Mono-Material Library?
The Mono-material Library aims to showcase how mono-material design, created with a single fibre such as wool, can achieve diverse textures, forms, and functions through engineered use of woven structures.

This innovative approach shifts focus from selecting fibres based on their inherent properties, to engineering, through woven structure, functionality and transforming a fabrics mechanical properties.

As an emergent area of design, mono-material designing responds directly to the climate emergency by prioritising material or product recyclability or biodegradability at the end of life. This project has evolved from the Designers shared interest in the role textiles can play in achieving Net Zero.

Mono-Material Library x Schoenenkwartier
This collaboration challenged conventional approaches to woven design and shoemaking through an interdisciplinary partnership. This process driven project explores how jacquard and dobby weaving can be used to create mono-material footwear uppers. Focusing on the ability to engineer multi-layer woven textiles on- loom and then transform them through finishing techniques to create functional footwear components. Through an in depth exploration of woven structure, the project investigates how to strategically engineer areas of flexibility, rigidity, stretch and cushioning where required within the uppers.

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Exhibition: Marie Hazard & Masaomi Yasunaga

30 May 2024 Artist Profile / Events / Exhibitions / General / Lecture / New weave developments / News
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Tristan Hoare is delighted to present a dual exhibition of works by French weaver Marie Hazard and ceramics by Japanese artist Masaomi Yasunaga, curated by Sonya Tamaddon. Both threading and ceramics embody notions of being enmeshed, finding connections, coming apart, thus disclosing multiple incarnations, formats, densities, and textures. In the woven works of Hazard and in the ceramic vessels of Yasunaga, the artists make a poignancy of the familiar by allowing rituals of life and their affiliated embellishments to be misconstrued. Both artists engage in radical acts to bring their artworks to life, stripping their chosen mediums of their centuries-long ties to function.

Hazard and Yasunaga embody the spirit of termite artists, a term coined by Manny Farber in 1962 to articulate an artist’s lack of ambition towards gilt culture but rather a squandering, beaverish endeavour in their approach to art-making. While pottery is typically formed by clay, fired in a kiln and sealed with a finishing coat of glaze, Yasunaga employs glaze as his primary material from which he builds his sculptural works, enlisting fire as his sculpting tool. Each fragile glazed construction is prepared for firing by an act of burial under protective layers of sand and kaolin which organically fuse together in the kiln. After ceding a measure of control to fortuity in the firing stage, Yasunaga unearths the object, enacting a ritual performance of interment, transformation, exhumation. This process is influenced by the Japanese doll making method of Hariko, a papier-mâché technique introduced to Japan between the 8th and 12th centuries.

In the spring of 2020 Yasunaga introduced found stones and mosaic tiles into this practice. Deepening both the notion of the termite process to the work and an element of chance, Yasunaga began deploying tiles to the surface of his works prior to firing them. Yasunaga recalls, “this discomfort indicated the possibility that my own boundaries of beauty existed around the periphery.” In his practice, objects once functional with human activities are reconsidered in a state of material death and it is through this process the artist’s pursuit of beauty lies. With these innovations in non-functional, expressive ceramics, Yasunaga extends the influence of this process into the 21st century towards a significant collective reconsideration of what ceramic sculpture has been throughout its history and what it can become.

This notion of time and materiality also lies central to Hazard’s practice. Hazard’s medium of choice is weaving, drawing upon studies of pastel on paper, photography, painting, printmaking, and literature as research materials to inform her works conceived on the loom. Etymologically the word “text” is derived from the Latin word “texere” meaning woven. Pre-Columbian textiles were made for communication prior to the adaptation of written language. If one looks closely they may find a phrase by Rimbaud delicately disguised into Hazard’s weavings – “on ne part pas” (we are here forever). Continue reading →

Job: The Bristol Weaving Mill Ltd. Production Assistant Maternity Cover Role

3 April 2024 General / Jobs / News
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Role to commence in June/July 2024 under a 1 year fixed-term contract, 35 hours per week.

Salary £21,000 per annum.

The Bristol Weaving Mill Ltd are looking for an organised and proactive weaving mill Production Assistant with advanced knowledge of woven textiles, and meticulous attention to detail. Reporting directly to the Production Manager this role requires a confident and skilled hand-weaver with an interest in industrial manufacturing and sustainable textiles. The successful applicant will have excellent communication skills, be self-motivated and hard-working, able to follow instruction and work well in a dynamic small team. Experience working with industrial machinery is desirable but not essential.

 Production Assistant Maternity Cover Job Role Description:

Organisation and Logistics:

  • Assisting the Production Manager with procurement by monitoring the status of deliveries.
  • Communicating with cut-and-sew subcontractors handing over technical direction.
  • Preparing finishing sheets, Quality Control management and recording.
  • Assisting the Production Manager with logistics.
  • Packing and distribution of fabric rolls, yarn and products in line with project timescales.
  • Assisting with organization of stock and annual stock checks.
  • Archiving of finished projects including technical files and samples.
  • General housekeeping – regular tidying, keeping space organised and manageable.

Technical and Weaving:

  • Assisting the Production Manager with the creation and organisation of CAD files and weave tickets for in-house and outsourced production designs.
  • Under the direction of the Production Manager and Product Development team, working on hand-woven samples ready for industrial application.
  • Hand-weaving of production lengths and products, ensuring targets are met.
  • Setting up of weaving looms from warp winding to threading and reeding.
  • Checking and mending loom-state fabric.
  • General maintenance and upkeep of hand-weaving looms.
  • Cut-and-sew processes including sewing labels and cutting blankets and scarfs.

In-house Industrial Operations:

  • With the support of the Production Manager, working on the general set-up and operation of in-house industrial loom.
  • Creating, checking through and assembling punch-cards for industrial weaving loom.
  • Assisting with the organization of warps for the in-house industrial weaving loom.

Training is provided for operation of in-house looms and CAD software, but a thorough understanding of hand-weaving and woven construction, and previous experience with some weaving software is essential for the role.

To apply please email your CV together with a covering letter and your digital portfolio of weaving to juliet@bristolweavingmill.co.uk by 6pm on Friday 5th April 2024.

Double Weave: Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft

10 September 2023 Exhibitions / General / News
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Double Weave: Bourne and Allen’s Modernist Textiles

This autumn, Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft will be marking ten years since their major redevelopment with an exhibition about the museum’s co-founder Hilary Bourne (1909 – 2004) and Barbara Allen (1903 – 1972), her partner in life and creative practice.

The pair ran an internationally successful textile studio, designing and making a variety of fabrics – tweed for Fortnum & Mason, furnishing fabric for Heal’s and scarves for Liberty. The turning point in their career came in 1951, when they won the competition to design and make textiles for the newly built Festival Hall. They went on to win commissions to make the costumes for the multi-Oscar winning 1959 film Ben-Hur and the interiors of the UK’s first jet planes.

In short, they were two of the most significant textile designers of the modernist period, yet they remain largely unknown – until now.

Double Weave will give space to their story. It will speak to the invisibility of women as leading modernist designers and how women’s intimacy informs creative pursuits.

High profile commissions undertaken by the pair will be on display, such as the costumes from Ben-Hur and curtains designed for the Ceremonial Box at the Royal Festival Hall. Visitors can see Bourne and Allen’s innovative use of natural dyes for hand woven textiles, as well as examples of their early adoption of the metallic yarn, Lurex.

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Opportunity: Whitchurch Silk Mill | Trainee Weaver

12 August 2023 Company Profile / General / Jobs / News / Reseach
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Whitchurch Silk Mill is looking for a Trainee Weaver who is keen to learn about making silk on their Victorian machinery. As a working museum, they need someone with a practical hands-on approach with a genuine interest in heritage and weaving silk on tappet and dobby looms. During this one-year training post the trainee will learn how to wind, warp and weave and work in this working museum in the heart of the Hampshire countryside.

The Trainee Weaver will receive:
Full time, paid placement
£19,000 pa
Training in the operation of a Grade Two* listed Silk Mill, including winding, warping, weaving and the operation of a visitor attraction
Time to study
Work alongside the Weaver Tacklers, Mill Engineer and the Mill team
Learn about all aspects of silk production on our historic machinery
Develop skills, such as guiding and working in a visitor attraction

To apply, please send a CV and a covering email letter to Sue Tapliss (click on name for address) by Monday 4th September 2023.

Please do not send portfolios / photographs
Closing Date: 5.00pm Monday 4th September 2023

With thanks to Whitchurch Silk Mill for text and image

 

Anita Sarkezi | Weave Designer & Award Winner

24 July 2023 Artist Profile / Awards / Exhibitions / General / New weave developments / News / Weave Designer Profile
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Winner of the Weavers’ Company Award at New Designers

Anita Sarkezi was born to working-class Slovenian migrant parents in Sweden and returned to Slovenia during her school years. She has since then lived in several European countries, moving to Scotland in 2018.

Sarkezi’s textile design practice is motivated and informed by her Slavic cultural background. Her work is grounded in the interwoven histories of rural material culture and post-colonialism in Central and Eastern Europe, where she questions the traditional use of floral patterns as national symbols.

Her practice explores the relationship between organic and geometric shapes. Using the TC2 digital loom, Sarkezi constructs an imaginary space consisting of personal ornaments and motifs, as well as bold and gradient uses of colour. This serves as a visual metaphor for the flux of movement and migration and an outlet for her personal narrative as a migrant.

Sarkezi gathers visual information through wandering, catching and recording glimpses of nature in urban centres, then incorporating them into a new reality utilising digital and analogue ways of working.

Sarkezi’s approaches to drawing, colour and design exploration are intuitive and chaotic yet neatly edited at the end of the process. They’re all intertwined throughout the creative journey, and she feels colour exploration can end up in a drawing and design exploration can become a drawing. Form does not exist without colour. Each drawing, colour and design exploration has been collaged from diverse sources, aiming to create something that is ‘original’ and is an expression of her own identity and heritage.

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Exhibition: The Tangible Project for London Craft Week 2023

2 May 2023 Artist Profile / Company Profile / Exhibitions / General / New weave developments / News / Weave Designer Profile
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The Tangible Project

Venue: gallery@oxo Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, London SE1 9PH
Dates: 10-14 May 2023
Instagram: @the_tangible_project

Three textile artists Amelie Crépy, Jacqueline James and Line Nilsen are creating The Tangible Project with five other very different artists and makers for London Craft Week, 10-14 May 2023.

This exhibition of over 30 new pieces of fine works celebrates the importance of touch through materials and promotes the inherent value of the handmade in art and design. In a world leaning toward digital encounters where so recently society was restricted from physical contact, touch has never mattered more. Hands exploring materials are the lifeblood of artists, a fluid relationship that ignites expression, understanding and a sense of connection.

Amélie Crépy endeavours to use only the purest of materials and as little as possible, often using just one colour. She seeks to replicate synthetic processes and digital techniques with hand-made pigments, inks, dyes and other mediums. Her love for the physicality of woven fabric, combined with her history as a textile print designer, has inspired the development of her current practice and the layered patterns she produces. For The Tangible Project she is focusing specifically on hand made oak gall ink created from crushed up galls found on oak trees which will be transferred onto pure Linen. Her work will be presented as both traditional framed artworks, as well as a large-scale piece hung from the wall. Instagram: @ameliecrepy

Jacqueline James’ current collection for The Tangible Project has been positively influenced by working with artist and textile designer Amélie Crépy during their collaboration to create ‘The Alchemy of Blue’ for Collect Open 2022. She will be combining natural, luxury yarns, including wool, linen, silk and banana fibre, to accomplish interesting surface texture with a sensory tactile quality.

Her latest work will feature custom dyed and handwoven textiles for both the floor and the wall. Several new designs are motivated by her fascination with sacred geometry. Jacqueline is further exploring the use of natural dyes and is excited to share her new colour palette. Instagram @Jacqueline_james_rugs

Line Nilsen who will be showing a range of handwoven artworks – contemporary crafted paintings with strong ties to traditional textile making. Continuing on from past work, she is exploring hand cut floats and textured surfaces in her recent body of work. Building on ikat dye techniques, Line has developed her own way of achieving a softer brush stroke effect in her work. Her pieces are hand dyed and painted in multiple stages to get the desired look. All her weaves are made on a 16-shaft mechanical dobby loom. Line is using her love of craft and materials to connect the viewer to her native Norway.

Instagram: @linenilsentextiles

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Exhibition: The Jacquard Project | Hannah Robson

6 March 2023 Artist Profile / Awards / Exhibitions / General / New weave developments / News
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In March 2023, Sunny Bank Mills will present a unique project of collaborative work led by weaver and artist Hannah Robson. Hannah has created a series of dynamic woven textiles using an industrial jacquard loom at Bradford College.

These striking fabrics have been developed in partnership with four local artists: a sculptor, a jeweller, a weaver and a mixed-media artist.

Hannah describes her motivation for the project:
‘I wanted to work with other artists to open up the process of weaving, which can be very technical and hard to access outside of an industrial setting. Weaving is a magical process that offers infinite possibilities in terms of design, colour and surface. It has been stimulating for me to see how each collaboration has unfolded and the results are distinct and surprising.’

In 2021, Hannah began working with an industrial loom that needed some attention at Bradford College. Through The Jacquard Project she has coaxed the machine back to life with the help of local weavers and loom tuners, who generously advised her, replaced parts and serviced the machine.

Some of these conversations have been captured in a fascinating film created by Karanjit Panesar, intercut with footage of the action of the loom as it weaves, revealing the atmosphere of making cloth and sharing skills.
Link to film: https://youtu.be/G-blWyqmiBw

The Jacquard Project celebrates the weaving heritage of West Yorkshire through the process of creative exchange and collaboration. These new textiles have a contemporary and conceptual edge, presented as large panels on wooden frames. The cloths carry evidence of the making process – the experimentation and exploration, colour and scale variations, yarn testing, and the glitches of the loom. Continue reading →

Opportunity: 6 Week Heritage Skills Student Placements | x3

6 March 2023 General / News
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Whitchurch Silk Mill are pleased to offer three, six week Heritage Skills Student Weaving Placements from 4th July to 12th August 2023 at their mill.

Whitchurch Silk Mill invite applications from those studying woven textiles or anyone with experience or interest in working with textiles to apply for a six-week placement.

On the Weaving Placement, you will:

  • Learn about the care and operation of their Victorian machinery, including  waterwheel, winding frames, creel and warping drum, and tappet and dobby looms.
  • Learn about the weaving capabilities. Depending on where the mill is in their programme and progress, you will have the opportunity, when required, to assist with specific tasks. For instance, threading up a loom, winding bobbins and pirns, warping and the art of hand twisting.
  • Learn about the brand, explore the archive and develop ideas for the development of Whitchurch Silk.
  • Discover how a working museum and visitor attraction operates, including meeting and guiding visitors, retail, catering, answering queries and devising activities for families and visitors.
  • Whitchurch Silk Mill are committed to ensuring that you have a great experience but must stress that while you receive training and instruction, this is, in part, a self-led learning experience. It is a work placement to give you an overview of working within a heritage weaving attraction.

How many placements are on offer?
There are a total of 3 placements on offer.
Placement Duration: 6 weeks, Tuesday to Saturday, 4th July to 12th August 2023.

Hours: 9.15 am to 5.15 pm 5 days per week, including Saturdays; some time will be spent working on the demonstration looms and interacting with visitors.

Experience to be gained

  • Gain great work experience to add to your CV and a good reference;
  • Learn about winding, warping and weaving on Victorian and early 20th-century looms, and the care that they take of their heritage machinery;
  • Apply the theory and practice learnt during their studies in a working environment;
  • Practice organisational, management and personal skills;
  • Discover more about the silk industry at one of only three silk mills in the country;
  • Experience working life in a busy working museum;
  • Gain valuable experience of dealing with visitors, customers and answering enquiries;

Bursary
£500 bursary per placement Continue reading →

Job: Account Manager | David Walters

22 February 2023 General / Jobs / News
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David Walters design and weave exceptional furnishing fabrics for internationally renowned wholesale collections. Set in the heart of rural Suffolk, we combine over 300 years of jacquard weaving expertise with today’s technological advances in responsible manufacturing. They have an exciting opportunity to join our sales team as an Account Manager.

With a shared passion for creating beautiful textiles, an Account Manager at David Walters works in close collaboration with their customers to translate their ideas into exclusive fabrics.

The purpose of the role is to generate profitable, sustainable revenue by identifying and evaluating new business; setting a clear strategy to win that business and delivering to plan.

You will join a lively sales team and can combine your creativity and commercial understanding of the furnishing market to add real value to an already established brand and product. There is a strong focus on creativity and design as well as building sustainable relationships with customers. You will be working in a supportive environment with a real emphasis on shared values.

Who David Walters are looking for:
A dynamic, driven and market focused person that is self-motivated, highly organised that understands the value of luxury products.
A team player who enjoys contributing to improvements and innovation, with an affinity for colour and design.
Someone who enjoys developing new business and can plan strategically.
Someone with a proven track record of sales into luxury markets or has had experience of guiding clients through a creative product development process.

The role
A customer facing role, managing, maintaining, and developing relationships with key accounts and developing new business.
Delivering an agreed sales revenue target individually and as part of a team.
Identifying opportunities, mitigating risks and continuously evaluating and reforming the plan to deliver new business.
Developing woven fabrics that are in line with their capabilities and are appropriate for the furnishings market by setting, agreeing and managing customer expectations.
Managing customer design projects from concept to completion. Continue reading →

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