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Weaving Futures: Week 7 | Josephine Ortega

lr-yellow-close-up-josephine-ortega-1Weaving Futures is an exhibition at London Transport Museum highlighting the importance of woven textile design to the London Transport system. The exhibition explores the process and making of digital woven textiles, as part of the Museums’, Designology season.

Each week, visitors will be able to see invited designers/artists in residence in the Designology studio, who will be working on a project brief and interacting with a weaver in their residency dates. The weavers will be interpreting the residents work live into digital woven textile prototypes and final works on a state-of-the-art TC2 digital jacquard loom. 

Week  7  features:  Josephine Ortega
Residency dates: 5th – 7th Jan 2017
Activity Days: 6th & 7th Jan 2017

Born in Nottingham, UK, Josephine Ortega is a Textile Designer who recently graduated  from Central Saint Martins. During her degree she specialised in Woven Textiles, exploring construction of yarn through the loom. Throughout her final year, Ortega began to explore alternative methods of construction, which meant her designs developed off loom and she began to explore a traditional tug-making technique that became the basis for her final major project.

Her recent  collection, ‘Grid’ investigated the perception of ‘comfort’, culminating in textile proposals for transport seating.
In order to define the abstract notion of ‘comfort’, Ortega
 collected people’s testaments on where and when they feel at their most comfortable.

Compiling responses and accompanying photography of the individuals’ homes, the designer created a visualisation of comfort, ultimately offering her a palette of colour, pattern and yarn choice with which to work.
Wanting to challenge the boundaries of weight, density and scale throughout transport fabrics, Ortega explored construction methods, material investigation and dyeing processes throughout her work, resulting in bespoke, hand crafted designs.

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Late Debate: Designing the Tube | London Transport Museum

late-debatedesigning-the-tube_a5_flyerLate Debate: Designing the Tube

London Transport Museum

Date: Thursday 26 January 2017
Time: 18.45 – 22.30

Weaving Futures residents will be taking part in a PechaKucha* events during the late debate and there will also be a workshop running in the Designology Studio  with live TC2 jacquard loom weaving.

Interactive talks and debates:

  • Tales from Weaving Futures: Fast paced designology studio presentations
  • Off the Rails: Learning from the past and influencing the future
  • Connect or forget: Explore how changes to the network shape communities
  • Delight and surprise: Art, ads, culture? What makes your journey matter?

 Serious play activities:

  • Bar and live music
  • Network mapping on a big scale
  • Secrets behind the Tube map
  • Illustrate an idiom: exploring station design
  • Digital weaving
  • Meet the authors and designers

Late Debate on the evening of 26 January 2017. Guests will be able to enjoy interactive debates, talks and workshops, as well as a bar, live music and the Museum’s special Designology exhibition.

DEBATES AND TALKS

Guests will have the chance to join one of four keynote talks and debates by leading industry experts, designers and authors.

  • Tales from Weaving Futures: Powered by PechaKucha*: Enjoy a PechaKucha of textile tales, design debates and weaving wonders. All brought to you by the designers, artists and industry professionals involved the Designology Weaving Futures Exhibition studio programme.
  • Off the Rails: Learning from the past and influencing the future: In this panel discussion, expert historians, authors and contemporary designers will explore designing for the railways, sharing learning from past and debating recommendations for the future.
  • Connect or forget: Powered by New London Architecture: Work with New London Architecture and a panel of expert speakers to consider how the Tube, and wider transport network, has the ability to connect or forget regions and communities.
  • Delight and surprise: Explore how our journeys can be impacted through moments of delight and surprise, and how such moments make us a world class leader in design. Give your views on how important it is for our stations to celebrate heritage, promote a sense of nature, engage with art and culture, and make an impact through well curated advertising.

 Hosts and speakers in alphabetical order include: David Lawrence, Kingston University professor and author; Declan McCafferty, Partner at Grimshaw Architects; Dominique Caplan, Gainsborough Weaving; Geoff Marshall, Londonist Video Journalist; Glenn Iceton, Group Agency Sales Director, Exterion Media; Jessica Vaughan, Curator of Art on the Underground; Larissa Kunstel-Tabet and Renee Verhoeven, Takram; Linda Florence, printed textile designer and senior lecturer Central Saint Martins; Mike Ashworth, Design & Heritage Manager at London Underground; Mike Walton, London Transport Museum; Nick Tyler, University College London professor and author; Paul Priestman Designer, Chairman of PriestmanGoode; Peter Murray, Chairman of New London Architecture; Philippa Brock, Weaveshed; Sam Richards, Head of Urban Integration at Crossrail; Samuel Dempsey, Product & Critical Designer; Wallace Henning, Designer at Koto and reproducer of the British Rail Corporate Identity Manual; Will Sandy, Edible Bus stop. All other speakers and contributors to be announced in January 2017. Continue reading →

Weaving Futures: Week 5 | Linda Florence

8295194_origWeaving Futures is an exhibition at London Transport Museum highlighting the importance of woven textile design to the London Transport system. The exhibition explores the process and making of digital woven textiles, as part of the Museums’, Designology season.

Each week, visitors will be able to see invited designers/artists in residence in the Designology studio, who will be working on a project brief and interacting with a weaver in their residency dates. The weavers will be interpreting the residents work live into digital woven textile prototypes and final works on a state-of-the-art TC2 digital jacquard loom. 

 Week  5 features: Linda Florence
Residency dates: 19th – 22nd  Dec 2016
Activity days: 20th & 22nd Dec 2016

Linda Florence produces bespoke hand printed wallpaper and installation artwork for public, commercial and private interiors. Florence’s printing techniques incorporate a mixture of traditional and new technologies including silk screen-printing, ceramic printing and laser cutting.

Florence draws inspiration from the materials, craft practice and historic and social context of the project site and builds a narrative for each project.

Her clients include the Victoria and Albert Museum, The Jerwood Space, Swarovski, The National
Trust, Ted Baker, Sheffield Millennium Gallery, NHS Hospitals and Random House Books.
linda-florence-lindaprinting-for-cove
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Weaving Futures: Week 4 | Gainsborough

gainsborough-2Weaving Futures is an exhibition at London Transport Museum highlighting the importance of woven textile design to the London Transport system. The exhibition explores the process and making of digital woven textiles, as part of the Museums’, Designology season.

Each week, visitors will be able to see invited designers/artists in residence in the Designology studio, who will be working on a project brief and interacting with a weaver in their residency dates. The weavers will be interpreting the residents work live into digital woven textile prototypes and final works on a state-of-the-art TC2 digital jacquard loom. 

 Week  4 features: Gainsborough

Gainsborough is a Jacquard weaving mill and dye house based in Suffolk, producing the highest quality of cloth from both modern and traditional punch card looms. Established in 1903 by an enterprising weaver, Reginald Warner, the business moved to its present location in 1924.Offering a truly bespoke design service, Gainsborough runs an in-house operation from design and dying through to weaving.  With a wonderful archive of over 7,000 designs built up through Warner’s Grand Tours and successive generations of weaving, Gainsborough is by nature a very special and unfortunately rare example of British craftsmanship and artisanal manufacture.

Awarded the Royal Warrant in 1981, the company has produced fabrics for royal palaces, state buildings and grand residences the world over, and the tradition of creating fabrics of enduring quality carries on today. Gainsborough’s reputation was built on innovation and design, and you are as likely to find our products in a luxury vehicle or on a Parisian catwalk as on the walls of a stately home. Their designs span the full breadth of creative expression, from the very traditional to the thoroughly avant-garde.gainsborough-1 Continue reading →

Weaving Futures: Week 3 | Camira

camira-transport-loom-2mbWeaving Futures is an exhibition at London Transport Museum highlighting the importance of woven textile design to the London Transport system. The exhibition explores the process and making of digital woven textiles, as part of the Museums’, Designology season.

Each week, visitors will be able to see invited designers/artists in residence in the Designology studio, who will be working on a project brief and interacting with a weaver in their residency dates. The weavers will be interpreting the residents work live into digital woven textile prototypes and final works on a state-of-the-art TC2 digital jacquard loom. 

Week 3 features: Camira
Residency dates:
9th & 10th Dec 2016. 18th Jan & 7th Feb 2017
Activity days: 9th & 10th Dec 2016, 7th Feb 2017

Camira is an independent UK based company which designs and manufactures contract performance fabrics for transport and commercial interiors. They are the major sponsors of  the Weaving Futures exhibition

The company was founded in 1974 as Camborne Fabrics in Huddersfield, which spent 9 years as part of the US Interface organisation before completing a successful management buy-out 10 years ago. They got involved in transport fabrics through a couple of acquisitions, firstly British Furtex Fabrics in 2003, then John Holdsworth & Co in 2007. The relations between the Holdsworth brand and TfL go back decades, as Holdsworth was originally founded in 1822 and got involved in moquette rail fabrics at a very early stage.

camira-transport-2mbCamira is described as a young company with a very rich heritage. They have over 500,000 sq. feet of UK manufacturing, 75,000 sq. feet in Lithuania, and control the bulk of their supply chain and manufacturing processes, from yarn dyeing, through warping, weaving and textile finishing.

They have in-house design, colour and technical specialists, who can exploit their diverse weaving capabilities to create different fabric constructions and design styles.

Camira make 8 million metres of fabric a year, including a million metres for transport applications, and sell to 70 countries around the world. They hold the Queen’s Awards for International Trade and Sustainable Development.

Other residents participating in the Weaving Futures season include: Assemble, Beatwoven, Philippa Brock, Camira, Central Saint Martins, BA Textile students, Samuel Dempsey, Linda Florence, Gainsborough Weaving Company, Eleanor Pritchard, Rare Thread : aka Kirsty McDougall & Laura Miles, Josephine Ortega, Ismini Samanidou, Studio Houndstooth: Jo Pierce, Takram & Priti Veja

Resident artists and designers have been invited to respond to a project brief; exploring the role of textiles in modern transport now and in the future. They will focus on ‘untapped’ sources of data generated by, or helpful to, the transport system. Their responses will then be interpreted into woven textiles, live for museum visitors.

Creative responses may span from future speculations on data capture and its textile use, to new methods of digitising human interactions, to creative interpretations and visualisations of existing TfL data sets.

The weavers for the season are Rosie Green & Hanna Vinlöf Nylen

Text and images : With thanks to Camira

 

Weaving Futures: Week 3 | Assemble

assemble2Weaving Futures is an exhibition at London Transport Museum highlighting the importance of woven textile design to the London Transport system. The exhibition explores the process and making of digital woven textiles, as part of the Museums’, Designology season.

Each week, visitors will be able to see invited designers/artists in residence in the Designology studio, who will be working on a project brief and interacting with a weaver in their residency dates. The weavers will be interpreting the residents work live into digital woven textile prototypes and final works on a state-of-the-art TC2 digital jacquard loom. 

Week 3 features: Assemble
Residency dates: 4th – 8th Dec 2016
Activity days: 6th & 8th Dec 2016

Assemble are a collective based in London who work across the fields of art, architecture and design. They began working together in 2010 and are comprised of 20 members. Assemble champion a working practice that is interdependent and collaborative, seeking to actively involve the public as both participant and collaborator in the on-going realisation of the work.

In 2015 Assemble won The Turner Prize for their project Granby Workshop that makes experimental, handmade products for homes. It was set up as part of the community-led rebuilding of a Liverpool neighbourhood, following years of dereliction and institutional neglect.

Image copyright Assemble info@assemblestudio.co.ukMaria Lisogorskaya, Jane Hall and Paloma Strelitz from Assemble will be the residents in Weaving Futures. Continue reading →

Weaving Futures: Week 2 | Central Saint Martins BA Textile Students

michael-woods-mg_8645Weaving Futures is an exhibition at London Transport Museum highlighting the importance of woven textile design to the London Transport system. The exhibition explores the process and making of digital woven textiles, as part of the Museums’, Designology season.

Each week, visitors will be able to see invited designers/artists in residence in the Designology studio, who will be working on a project brief and interacting with a weaver. The weavers will be interpreting the residents work live into digital woven textile prototypes and final works on a state-of-the-art TC2 digital jacquard loom. 

Week 2 features: Textile Students from Central Saint Martins BA ( Hons) Textile Design Course, who road tested the data brief for the Weaving Futures Season in May 2016. Four overall winners were chosen to have a residency in the Designology Studio at London Transport Museum.

Residency dates: 30th Nov  – 3rd December 2016
Activity days: 30th Nov & 2nd December 2016 

The Designology, Weaving Futures Studio is open at all the times the museum is open. Vistors very welcome

Weaving Future exhibition dates: 22 November 2016 to 18 February 2017

Michael Woods

(image above) As a designer, I find myself continually looking at the elements and surfaces that I encounter everyday.The style of my work often combines a background surface, layered on top with other elements, whether that is found materials, oil paint or a variety of mark making. My work is about contrasts between colours, textures and light.

For this project, I was inspired by the symbols and signs that we all encounter in the urban environment, especially in a rapidly changing city like London but that we unconsciously ignore.

I noted the variety of symbols and marks found on the road and pavements that provide fragments and information left behind from construction work, a visual language on the streets that few of us can make sense of.

Lily Thornton

Lily Thornton is a final year woven textile student at Central Saint Martins. She generates ideas through found and assembled fragments of everyday using Situationist methods of derive, interested in themes surrounding the overlooked and chance procedure.lily-thornton-ltm-images

Mimi Forrest Continue reading →

Weaving Futures: Week 1 – Wallace Sewell

wallace-sewell-overground-moq-swatchWeaving Futures is an exhibition at London Transport Museum highlighting the importance of woven textile design to the London Transport system. The exhibition explores the process and making of digital woven textiles, as part of the Museums’, Designology season.

Each week, visitors will be able to see invited designers/artists in residence in the Designology studio, who will be working on a project brief and interacting with a weaver. The weavers will be interpreting the residents work live into digital woven textile prototypes and final works on a state-of-the-art TC2 digital jacquard loom. 

The first residents in the ‘Weaving Futures’ Studio are Wallace Sewell

Residency dates: 21st – 26th Nov 2016
Activity days: 22nd & 26th Nov 2016

The Designology, Weaving Futures Studio is open at all the times the museum is open. Vistors very welcome

Weaving Future exhibition dates: 22 November 2016 to 18 February 2017

About Wallace Sewell
UK based British design studio, Wallace Sewell, was established by Harriet Wallace-Jones and Emma Sewell after graduating from The Royal College of Art in 1990. Their diverse portfolio includes scarves for the Tate museums as well as moquette fabric designs for Transport for London’s underground seating.

When exhibiting for the first time in 1992, their pieces created much enthusiasm and interest, particularly from Barney’s, New York who placed an order for scarves. This proved instrumental in kick starting the Wallace Sewell brand. Barneys are still buying today and Wallace Sewell now supply over 200 stockists in 20 countries.

They have worked with various boutique hotels, designing and producing bespoke bedspreads and more recently have been invited to be guest designers for an international retail brand. Working from their studio in London and their Dorset outpost, this progressive design duo pioneers excellence and originality within their woven products.

Combining innovation with practical solutions, Wallace Sewell is known for their use of colour, structure and yarn in surprising geometric formats. Inspired by paintings, they create individual contemporary fabrics with strikingly bold, asymmetric blocks and stripes of varying scales, which bring together a plethora of elements within one piece.
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Exhibition: ‘Weaving Futures’ | London Transport Museum

wallace-sewell-tram-moq-swatchDates: 22 November 2016 to 18 February 2017

‘Weaving Futures’ is an exhibition at London Transport Museum highlighting the importance of woven textile design to the London Transport system. The exhibition explores the process and making of digital woven textiles, as part of the Museums’, Designology season.

Each week, visitors will be able to see invited designers/artists in residence in the Designology studio, who will be working on a project brief and interacting with a weaver. The weavers will be interpreting  the residents  work live  into digital woven textile prototypes and final works on a state-of-the-art TC2 digital jacquard loom.

51977-049‘Weaving Futures’ is  curated by design & research industry experts, Philippa Brock and Samuel Plant Dempsey

The Weaving Futures season will start with Wallace Sewell, who will be in residence in the studio from Nov 22nd – 26th 2016

Other residents participating in the season  include: Assemble, Beatwoven, Philippa Brock, Camira, Central Saint Martins, BA Textile students, Samuel Dempsey, Linda Florence, Gainsborough Weaving Company, Eleanor Pritchard, Rare Thread : aka Kirsty McDougall & Laura Miles, Josephine Ortega, Ismini Samanidou, Studio Houndstooth: Jo Pierce, Takram & Priti Veja

Resident artists and designers have been invited to respond to a project brief; exploring the role of textiles in modern transport now and in the future. They will focus on ‘untapped’ sources of data generated by, or helpful to, the transport system. Their responses will then be interpreted into woven textiles, live for museum visitors.

The weavers for the season are Rosie Green & Hanna Vinlöf Nylen

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Jacquard Ribbon Loom Restoration: Emma Wood | Part 2

image-1Jacquard Restoration in Berlin: Emma Wood Update

Work has been continuing steadily with the restoration of a 1920s ribbon Jacquard at the Deutsches Techniksmuseum in Berlin by Emma Wood & Birgit Zehlike.

Following the initial assessment and cleaning of the loom, the latest task has been to mend or replace the eight warps that are currently threaded on. The first five of these warps are connected to the first Jacquard mechanism, and the last three are connected to the second Jacquard mechanism.

Unfortunately there is no available threading plan, so the only keys to figuring out the threading of each of the eight warps were the old examples of woven ribbon and the original punchcards. This meant Emma had to look at the damaged threading that currently existed on the loom, compare this to the ribbon samples, and then reconstruct what the warp order and threading should be ( image above).

All of the eight ribbon warps use both the extra-warp and extra-weft techniques, and she was able to break each ribbon into a number of different design blocks. Once the design was broken down this way, it was much easier to calculate the correct threading plan.

image-2

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