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Symposium: ‘Making’ Communities | Textile Research @ CSM

23 October 2017 Events / Exhibitions / General / New weave developments / Reseach / Symposium
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‘Making’ Communities: Textile Research @ CSM |  TFRC Symposium

Date: 25 November 2017
Venue: LVMH Lecture Theatre
Central Saint Martins
1 Granary Square, London N1C 4AA
Time: 10.30am – 16.30

About: TFRC is a research community at the University of the Arts London, based at Central Saint Martins’ Textile department. They explore how materials and textiles can enable more inheritable futures. TFRC research ranges from social to sustainable as well as technological and craft innovation focusing on three core research areas: Urban Fabric, Weave Research and Material Innovation.

‘Making’ Communities will bring together practice-led academics from TFRC as well as Visiting Professor Reiko Sudo/ NUNO Tokyo and London based Studio Weave (tbc) to share latest textile and material innovation as well as new case studies of textile-led community engagement.

Future Processes, the first part of the symposium, will present insights into the sophisticated world of Nuno’s sustainable fabrics, made through innovative material recycling. Philippa Brock and Anne Smith will be re-thinking industrial processes such as loom-based 3D weave fabrication and pattern-making through lasercutting. Professor Carole Collet will present her research into designing future bio-materials with living systems.

Future Communities in the afternoon will discuss the role of textiles as a vehicle to build more inclusive communities – celebrating diverse cultural identities. London-based architecture practice Studio Weave (TBC) will present their recent projects exploring the role of colour in communities. Jo Pierce from Studio Houndstooth will discuss ludic co-design and community visibility in East London and Anne Marr will share research into local place-making with Crisis Brent. Whilst Linda Florence and Rebecca Hoyes will show how textile design can empower local artisan communities in the Middle East to develop new economic opportunities.

Tickets include light lunch and refreshments: £18 / £5 Concessions

Places are limited – please book your ticket here

For further information please visit our website or contact Hannah Cheesbrough via h.cheesbrough@csm.arts.ac.uk

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Company Profile: The Aviary Studio

22 October 2017 Company Profile / General / New weave developments / News
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Founded by Sarah Podlesny, The Aviary Studio is a UK based hand weaving studio and design consultancy providing fabric ideas and development to the high-street and high-end fashion and interior markets.

Striving to fulfil the constant demand for newness in an age where copying has become standard practice, The Aviary Studio‘s main aim is to inspire.

Sarah graduated in from Central Saint Martins in 2010 with a BA in Woven Textiles, and also participated in the Texprint that year, winning the Prize for Innovation.

Since then, she has experienced and worked in many areas of the industry, including with suppliers, brands, and studios. Sarah spent 4 years designing, weaving and selling for Laura Miles of Woven Studio, and during that time she was also designing jacquards for the womenswear line at Vanners Silk Mill.

Her initial studio practice experience, gained her an understanding of the technical and creative possibilities and constraints of woven fabric, and a great deal of experience selling, liaising and problem solving with clients.

From her time working for a mill, she learnt the invaluable skill of translating hand woven swatches into mill adaptations, and expanded her understanding of weave to industrial and computerized level, as well as hand woven. Continue reading →

Weave Graduates 2017

9 September 2017 General / New weave developments / News
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The following Weave Designers all graduated in 2017.

This is a showcase of their final collections.

Izzie Bagwell

(Image above) Inspired by work wear and protective wear, I explored the ways in which specialist materials have been used to cover bodies that are at risk, for example soldiers and firefighters.

My designs use fabrics that are typically found in protective wear, such as padding, high visibility fabrics, neon, metals and rubber and the inclusion of text. Function//Fashion mixes new and old fibers and materials together to create hybrid pieces that reflect and acknowledge the history of protective wear.

As my research progressed I became interested in subverting ideas of clothing that is meant to protect the body and began to create faux protective wear in which style would triumph over substance. Workwear and uniforms are a constantly recurring trope of much recent fashion design, and I wanted to play with the idea of subverting and commenting on high fashion, which is aimed at and designed for elite consumers, by overlaying themes and fabrics from protective and work wear clothing onto ‘fashion’ pieces.

Perhaps thinking about recent world events and the possibility of this continuing in the future: if life in developed, capitalist countries becomes more dangerous, even for the elite, protective clothes will become not the sign of the worker, but the sign of the elite, of those that can afford ‘protection’.

email: ialbagwell@gmail.com

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Dashing Tweeds: Collaboration with Joe Whitbread

5 September 2017 Awards / Exhibitions / General / New weave developments / News
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Dashing Tweeds  have worked with Joseph Whitbread in their first collaboration with a Royal College of Art student. The company has put one of his designs into production. 

An award winning student of Weaver, Kirsty McDougall – Joe’s final degree show was also chosen for a prestigious Texprint award and with his skilful designs he is definitely on the path to making a name for himself within the weaving industry.

Joseph is influenced by upbeat individuals the world over, from gregarious and colourfully plumed bee-eaters of Central Africa to the exotic stars of rock embodied by Bowie and Prince.

In addition his course work led to detailed analysis of the classic menswear tropes of the 20th century and the weave designs of cloths from the 1920’s and 30’s, especially William Watson’s influential book on colour and weave.

Dashing Tweeds saw Joseph’s work during a mid term assessment earlier this year and were very impressed by his sense of colour and the technical deflected double cloth lifting patterns he had devised.

The Dashing team then asked if he would like to produce a guest design to sit along side their AW17 fabric collections. Fortuitously their selected palette including oranges and turquoise blues in common with his inspirational bee-eaters. Continue reading →

Exhibition: Madeleine Jude | One Warp, Infinite Designs

31 August 2017 Exhibitions / General / New weave developments
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One Warp, Infinite Designs: An exploration of block design and multishaft weaving

One warp, Infinite Designs showcases a three year project by London / Surrey based textile designer and weaver, Madeleine Jude, to take one warp threading and see how many designs and structures can be produced by experimenting with different tie-up and treadling possibilities.

The threading uses a block design initially developed to weave a twill damask version of her table linen design called Dukagang – woven using a Dukagang weave structure. The strongly geometric design is inspired by antique Scandinavian linen towels woven in this structure.

The versatility of this initial threading became a source of play and exploration of its potential for creating other designs. The result is a collection of boldly distinct designs.

The exhibition follows the progression of this project from its early iteration as dukagang table linen and kitchen textiles, to the lambswool throw that Madeleine Jude is best known for and includes a preview of her latest work created using new weave structures on the same block threading.

The Handweavers Studio is a fitting place to mount this exhibition as Madeleine Jude was one of the first intake of students to the 2011-13 Handweavers Studio Diploma.  Since then she has been building her studio and collection and teaching her weaving techniques in Denmark. Continue reading →

Texprint 2017: Weave Designers

25 August 2017 Awards / Events / Exhibitions / General / New weave developments / News
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Texprint interviews, mentors and promotes the UK’s most talented textile design graduates with the support of industry professionals worldwide.

Those selected are introduced to buyers, press and sponsors at the Texprint London event, and at Europe and Asia’s leading yarn and textile exhibitions.

Texprint is entirely funded by the generous sponsorship of industry and by British charitable foundations, who believe wholeheartedly in supporting textile design talent and in encouraging design innovation and excellence.

The following Weave Designers were selected for 2017, and their work can be seen at Première Vision Designs, Paris, Europe’s leading textile design specialty show, where the designers will exhibit their unique textile design collections, meet international buyers and make contacts.

The Texprint Awards Presentation, promoting the talent of British-trained textile designers to an international audience, takes place in the Texprint ‘village’ in Hall 5 and is attended by industry guests and press.  The 2017 Prize Presenter in Paris will be star Japanese designer Yuma Koshino.:

Julia Lidell ( Top image)
The Hen Folk Dress Collection. Hen is a new Swedish word referring to he or she. This is used when the gender is unknown or has no significance for the comunicated message.

Hen Collection is a lifestyle collection, made applicable to gender neutral fashion and accessories, as well as interiors.

The collection explores both heavy and light designs that celebrate the potential of wool and natural materials. Research into the wider heritage of Scandinavia: garments and ships from the viking age, folk dress and craft techniques that are still used today, has inspired a multi-functional collection. This collection is inspired by objects that hold a history and traditional Scandinavian craft techniques as a tool for contemporary design.

I have a wide passion for crafts and materials. Textiles have always been an interest of mine, previous to my woven textiles degree in London, I studied tailoring and design for three years at college in Sweden. Textiles has become my specialism but I have a wide interest for many different crafts, ceramics, silversmithing, embroidery. The key for me is the authenticity of materials and the value of old craft technique.The last year I have been focussing on creating delicate but heavily textured contemporary woven designs, with a high wool content in earthy grounded colours, inspired by objects that hold a history, and by traditional techniques.

E:julia.lidell@gmail.com

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New Designers: The Swedish School of Textiles Borås | Weavers

13 July 2017 Exhibitions / General / New weave developments
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Agata Ciechomska holds a Master of Fine Arts in Textile Design from The Swedish School of Textiles. Her work explores colour perception in relation to material, colour and light through
weaving and hand-tufting.

Color in Loops
Exploring colour perception in relation to light in weaving and handtufting technique

The motivation for this work is based on the challenge to the preconception of handtufting through material, colour and light. When imagining a rug, a very specific image appears in our mind. Some details of that image could vary from person to person, but what is almost certain, dense and heavy, probably made out of wool, woven textile will pop up in front of our eyes.

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Exhibition: The Darker Thread // Edefyn Tywyllach

4 July 2017 Events / Exhibitions / General / New weave developments / Reseach / Workshops
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A Darker Thread // Edefyn Tywyllach

Oriel Myrddin Gallery

15 July – 21 October 2017

Wales has a much celebrated tradition of creating both utilitarian and decorative textiles of distinctive design.  From power-loomed blankets to hand-stitched quilts, textiles are a key part of Welsh visual culture and history.

Whilst ‘A Darker Thread’ takes this heritage as its starting point, twelve contemporary artists, designers and makers have been invited to exhibit work which subverts these expectations.

Exhibitors have been selected for their challenging, confrontational or unpredictable approach to making thoroughly contemporary work which confidently cross boundaries of art, design and craft.  A variety of making processes are exemplified, but all make use of thread in some form.

The curious, provocative, intense, fragile works explore broad-ranging themes of empowerment, loss, language, internal landscapes, memory and gender to name but a few.  Some work might still feel comfortably familiar through its materiality or typically ‘Welsh’ colour palette of black, ecru and red; much hopefully, does not.

Exhibitors: Alana Tyson, Eleri Mills, Indre Dunn, Jayne Pierson in collaboration with Neale Howells, Laura Thomas, Llio James, Philippa Lawrence, Rhiannon Williams, Rozanne Hawksley, Ruth Harries, Sally-Ann Parker and Spike Dennis. Continue reading →

Crossover Borås 2017: European Textile Network Conference

2 July 2017 Conferences / Events / Exhibitions / General / New weave developments / News / Symposium / Workshops
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Crossover Borås 2017, the XVIII conference of the European Textile Network, ETN, will be held September 12-19, 2017, The main conference sessions will take place on Saturday and Sunday, September 16-17, 2017. at the Swedish Museum of Textiles, located in the city of Borås, 30 minutes from Gothenburg airport.

The Borås Textile Fashion Centre not only houses the Museum but also the Swedish School of Textiles, an internationally renowned centre for textile innovation in fashion and design plus the Smart Textiles Lab.

The conference co-organizers are the European Textile Network, ETN, together with the Swedish Museum of Textiles and Nordic Textile Art association. The conference aims to present a global perspective of the different textile practices and their interactions with a special focus on sustainable creativity and innovation in textile art and design.

Speakers include Lij Edelkoort, one of the world’s most famous trend forecasters, Faigh Ahmed, Azerbaijani artist well known for his conceptual approach to traditional textiles, Jun Tomita, Japanese kasuri weaving master, Grethe Sørensen, Danish Jacquard weaver who recently received the Nordic Award in Textiles, and Catharine Ellis, who together with textile chemist Joy Boutrup, will talk about collaborative projects between art and science, among others.

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Company Profile: Esther Van Schuylenbergh

22 June 2017 Company Profile / Exhibitions / General / New weave developments
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Esther Van Schuylenbergh  is a designer with a master’s degree in Textile Design at the School of Arts in Ghent, Belgium. After  graduation in 2014 she worked as a textile designer for a Belgian wall covering company until setting up her own design studio in Ghent in 2016.

In her design studio she develops woven textiles suitable for interior design applications on her handloom. Striving to push the boundaries of the weaving technique, she explores the possibilities of yarn and construction to create innovative structures.

The core business of the studio is the design and development of woven textiles for the industry. By using a 32-shaft computerized handloom, Esther is creating dobby weaves with a keen eye for texture, pattern and colour.

Currently, she is working on a library of unique design swatches for upholstery, curtain and wall covering fabrics which are suitable for industrial production. Each sample is designed on the handloom and ready for mill development. All swatches are sold complete with copyright, technical files and yarn information.
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