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Select Festival 2016: Soft Engineering

Deirdre Woods Multi interlocking ringsSoft Engineering
Textiles Taking Shape

Alison Ellen, Ann Richards, Deirdre Wood
Dates: Saturday 30 April – Sunday 22 May
Museum in the Park Stratford park Stroud GL5 4AF
Times: Tuesday – Friday 10 am – 5 pm
Saturday and Sunday 11 am – 5 pm
Open Bank Holidays

Soft Engineering brings together, for the first time, the work of three inspiring textile designer makers. Having pursued separate careers in knitting and weaving, they find many common threads that have now inspired them to work together on this joint exhibition. Despite employing different techniques and structures, their approaches interconnect and cross over in intriguing and sometimes surprising ways.

Their passion for textiles shines through the original work that has been specifically created for this fascinating exhibition. Soft Engineering introduces a central theme of textiles that take shape through the interplay of raw material and structure that plays out in varied ways: repetition/displacement of simple shapes, pleating, folding, twisting and double-sided fabrics.

The exhibition will be complemented by workshops and a half day seminar.

Deirdre Wood
Deirdre brings a fresh approach to the ancient technique of strip weaving, with strips that are twisted before being joined by sewing. The result is a cloth that moves into the third dimension, creating geometric pieces designed for architectural settings. Ikat-dyeing brings dynamic movement and extra definition to these abstract forms. Her most recent work breaks new ground as curving strips emerge from the contrasting properties of linen and silk.

Ann Richards
Ann weaves fabrics that are smooth and rectangular on the loom but are transformed when soaked in water. The energy of high-twist wools and silks is released, causing yarns to spiral spontaneously, pleating the fabrics into flexible, textured scarves and clothes. Her latest work, a range of textile jewellery, combines these traditional materials with a silk/steel yarn that gives the fabric a temporary ‘memory’ for additional pleats and folds.Ann Richards Triple Spiral neckpiece large
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Collaboration project: Nadia – Anne Ricketts

Beatie Wolfe, David Mason aka Mr Fish & BeatWoven by Stuart NichollsSeeing music differently in The House of Rock; 34 Montague Square.

A collaboration between woven textile artist Nadia-Anne Ricketts from BeatWoven, musician Beatie Wolfe and Saville Row tailor David Mason of Mr. Fish.

It all began on the night of a book launch; The Digital Handmade : Craftsmanship in the New Industrial Revolution, where both textile artist Nadia-Anne Ricketts and innovative musician Beatie Wolfe were introduced by the author Lucy Johnston . It was the beginning of a collaboration where the five worlds of fashion, music, craft, history and technology would collide to show how music and craft can be worn and seen very differently in a compelling, storytelling way.

ProcessDubbed ‘The Secret Abbey Road’, 34 Montague Square is the former home of Hendrix, McCartney, Lennon and Ono; and the very birthplace of a ‘Wind Cries Mary’ and ‘Eleanor Rigby’.

The basement flat now belongs to savile row tailor, David Mason, an already collaborative partner to Beatie Wolfe. Both were eager to launch both David’s new acquisition; the re-launch of the flamboyant fashion label to the rock stars of the 60’s – Hendrix, Bowie and Jagger to name a few – Mr. Fish; with the release of Beatie’s new album consisted of music lyrics inspired by the very people that inhabited the space fifty years ago.
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Open Day: The London Cloth Company

005Saturday Open Days
Saturday 5th March is the first of their 2016 open days

See how fabrics are woven at The London Cloth Company, learn about the production process, and how their  restored shuttle looms run.

Tours will last approx. an hour, with additional time for questions at the end.

Please arrive 10 minutes before the start time.

Tour times:
10.30am – fully booked
1.00pm – places available
3.00pm – places available

Tickets are £10 / person

To book a place, please email: info@londoncloth.com

Background information:

The London Cloth Company was founded by Daniel Harris in 2011. Having acquired a rusting hand loom from a mill in Wales, he took it apart, put it back together, and taught himself to weave. Within a year he had acquired two further looms, two pern winders and a warping mill, and established the first cloth mill in the capital for over one hundred years.

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RailReed: Adjustable warp density

Juula_Pardi_RailReed_5_modulesRailReed is a new reed invention which can adjust warp density and fabric width while weaving and an alternative to open reed and fan reed, which both have pros and cons in manipulating threads while weaving.

Textile artist and Educator Kadi Pajupuu has invented and built a new type of reed. It consists of sliding modules which lets the weaver adjust the density of warps while weaving and even dramatically change the width of fabric from narrow to wide and back. The reed can be easily attached to a beater.

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Profile: Mayumi Kaneko

andonMayumi Kaneko is a hand weaver who came to the UK in 2003 and learned weaving from local weavers. She was educated in the UK and finished her post graduate course at Bath School of Art and Design in 2013.

She develops woven textures and patterns to make beautiful and intriguing fabrics, having a great passion for materials in particular paper yarn. She designs for fashion, interiors and lighting.

Using paper yarn  woven fabrics  in conjunction with lighting, exciting visual effects are  produced. The woven fabrics can be folded in different patterns which are derived from Japanese origami techniques, creating strength. The resulting faceted shapes produce the variety of light and shadow. Her lights introduce the sculptural art of lighting and whist having strong abstract and geometric forms, show clear inspiration from natural growth forms.
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Launch: The Bristol Weaving Mill

64fee7_4791f5960f6940f8b7639bffb50aa2ca_jpg_srb_p_1004_668_75_22_0_50_1_20_0First all-female weaving mill opens in Bristol

Bristol’s first all-female weaving mill will open for business in Old Market from November 4th 2015. The arrival of The Bristol Weaving Mill also marks the return of a cloth-weaving mill to the city after a 90 year absence.

Founded by Juliet Bailey and Franki Brewer, The Bristol Weaving Mill was born out of their internationally renowned Bristol-based textile design studio Dash & Miller. Over the last 6 years the pair have provided hand woven textile design and consultancy across the UK, Europe, USA, and Asia working with such companies as Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren, and Louis Vuitton.

This new machine driven weaving mill was the obvious next step for Director Juilet Bailey; ‘naturally, if a fashion house is interested in one of our designs they will also want to have it produced, and it’s this demand that has lead us down the path of manufacturing. Also by launching the mill we take back the creative control, so that everything from the design concept to the production of fabric is created in-house.”

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Winner: Bristol Cloth Design Competition

Bristol Cloth is a  100% wool fabric of classic heritage inspired design, prioritising locally sourced materials and manufacturing processes from the South West of the UK.

Wendy Kotenko has been awarded the first prize and was presented with the first 5m length of woven cloth, in a prizegiving ceremony at the Green Capital Lab space on the eve of October 28th 2015. Wendy’s design was chosen for the delicacy, versatility and timelessness of its basketry inspired design.

First place Runner Up was given to Rebecca Connolly, for her the strength and clarity of maritime inspired design,while Bristol based Becky Smith and Sophie Graney came
a very close second with their imaginative tweeds inspired by Bristol’s cycling culture and bicycle routes.

The finished cloth will soon be available for wholesale and retail purchase. Prospective clients are encouraged to register their interest by emailing: hello@bristolcloth.co.uk

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Film: Tana Bana – the warp and the weft

Copyright Annie DibbleTana Bana is a weaving term meaning ‘the warp and the weft.’ In Varanasi, the legendary Hindu city, it also means the warp and weft of time and space as well as the daily synergy of Hindu and Moslem. But now Varanasi is under threat.

If a single weaver can operate four power looms at the same time and the weavers are unable to teach their skills to their children, how can the city survive?

This unique, intimate documentary takes  a journey through a day in the life of Varanasi, challenging preconceptions along the way. From Hindu prayers on the Ganges at dawn, the film moves into a Moslem world where the hidden lives of women and children are gradually revealed as the weavers attempt to address the huge forces dominating their lives.

For a number of years the filmmakers have  filmed the Muslim handloom weavers and their community in Varanasi India – who make silk zari brocades and wedding saris.

Tana Bana will show as part of the V&A Museum Fabric of India Exhibition on the 16th November 2015. The hosts are the London Asia Film Festival and the venue is Regent’s Street Cinema, W1. Continue reading →

Job: Stephen Walters and Sons Ltd

 

AD photosVacancy: Sales/Design Account Manager – Stephen Walters and Sons Ltd

Stephen Walters has a well established reputation for excellence as a creative, high quality weaver of fine silks and other luxury fabrics for high end apparel, neckwear and accessories.

They are seeking a highly motivated account manager to join their sales team working with international fashion houses and designer brands.

The successful candidate needs to be creative and have knowledge of textiles and the fashion market. They need to be a strong communicator and a commercial awareness is essential. A second language would be useful.

All applicants must be highly self-motivated, with good organisational skills and should enjoy working as part of a team. Some international travel will be required.

Please email your CV and supporting letter to Lisa Grainger at sales@stephenwalters.co.uk.

Closing date: 30th October 2015
Walters Typeface 72dpi

The Campaign for Wool: ‘Sheep on The Row’

A&S.inddThe Campaign for Wool will mark the beginning of Wool Week 2015 by partnering with some of the world’s most prestigious tailors, menswear brands and cloth producers.

On Monday  5th October 2015  two sheep breeds will be grazing the length of Savile Row, alongside models in a presentation to promote wool as the cloth of choice for menswear.

Sheep on the Row,  is one of the largest public events for Wool Week 2015.  As sheep graze, visitors will be welcomed to the open Row and tailoring houses event to learn how wool is used by the great British Tailoring Industry.

Savile Row – Sheep On The Row will be open to the public from 10:00 – 18:00 Mon 5th Oct 2015.

The iconic street will be transformed into a green pasture, covered in turf and closed to traffic while Bowmont Merino and Exmoor sheep graze along the Row.

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