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New Designers: The Swedish School of Textiles Borås

Johanna-Samuelsson 01Students from The Swedish School of Textiles University of Borås exhibited at New Designers 2016. Three of the weavers are profiled below.

Johanna Samuelsson

Surface Synergy - Woven 3D texture merged with pattern

Surface Synergy – Woven 3D texture merged with pattern, is an innovative textile project that explores digital jacquard woven textures in combination with pattern. A digital visualising tool is used to create complex multilayered bindings that in combination with carefully chosen materials transform the flat textile surface into a patterned 3D-texture.

Textile designer Johanna Samuelsson explains that shrinking is used to transform the flat surface into a texturized one. At the same time as the pattern is created in the loom, also the texture is formed. Or rather, there is an interwoven ability for shrinking; this action of transformation is planned at the same time as the rest of the weave. As long as it is held   in the loom, the fabric is under tension and little shrinking can occur. First after cutting down and steaming, the final result of the shrinking can be seen. This work proposes on-loom effects requiring minimal finishing processes.

Woven patterns, such as plaid and houndstooth, are updated by merging with texture, twisting the traditions of the flat patterned surface. One of the strength with mixing pattern with texture is the concept of sensory manipulation. Johanna states ”I think that if a design, somehow breaks with the assumed aesthetic, or its traditions, we might look upon the object and start to really see it, just because it is distorting with over expectations. I think that a texturised textile has the power to evoke curiosity since its dynamic surface distorts the pattern and breaks up the ground surface into several visual elements.”

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New Designers: Weave Graduates

Josephine Ortega 2LRJosephine Ortega
My project investigated the perception of ‘comfort’ and culminated in concept proposals for transport seating. In order to define this abstract notion, I explored where and when people feel at their most comfortable through a questionnaire. The documentation of these answers through photography allowed for the visualisation of comfort to become more transparent, which ultimately meant that the concept of ‘comfort’ could become tangible and definite, making it easier to depict. The main visual inspiration taken from an individual’s home and swimming pool were translated into the designs through extracting elements that referenced colour, pattern and yarn choice.

 I wanted to challenge the existing transport seating designs therefore decided to approach my project using an alternative construction method, exploring traditional techniques used to create rugs. This method meant that the designs pushed the boundaries of weight, density and scale, yet still remained practical through the use of wool.

www.josephineortega.com

Central Saint Martins, University of The Arts London.

Katie LangKatie Lang 2, The Glasgow School of Art

My collection of handwoven fabrics was initially inspired by modern architecture. After drawing and creating collages from photography of buildings around Glasgow and Edinburgh, it became apparent that some of my drawings were very graphic whilst others were more painterly; this led to me exploring the idea of developing fabrics that contrasted graphic and painterly qualities.

I identified weave structures which allowed me to play about with geometric patterns and shapes, and used different blends of colours and yarns to achieve the more painterly aspects identified from my drawings. The final collection is a range of fabrics intended for interiors, woven from silks, soft cottons and lambswool yarns.

 

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New Designers: Worshipful Company of Weavers Prize Winners

IMG_6825The Worshipful Company of Weavers‘ prize for best woven fabrics at New Designers 2016 was awarded to Lydia Hiles from Manchester School of Art.

Lydia Hiles describes her work as: ‘captivated by methods of recording and storing information my intrigue into both the digital realm and the natural world has led to the development of a body of woven textile designs for fashion. I am particularly interested in adding a contemporary edge to traditional menswear fabrics by employing an innovative approach to colour, yarn, and structure.

Alongside my woven fabric designs I have also developed a trio of scarves commissioned for Flowers Gallery, London by the Michael Kidner trust. Inspired by the repeated undulating line motif of the column and wave works of Kidner the trio of woven lambswool scarves used his work as both a visual and conceptual catalyst. Taking particular interest in the themes of mathematics, chaos and wave theories I sought to capture the character of Michael Kidner’s artwork. I found that the scarf offered a unique canvas, in which composition and fabric qualities combined to create an exclusive piece of design for the gallery.” Continue reading →

The Cockpit Arts / Clothworkers’ Foundation Award 2016: Call for Entries

Rowenna Mason_weaving (1)Applications are invited for the Cockpit Arts / The Clothworkers’ Foundation Awards 2016.

The Awards are only open to weavers who have graduated within the last 5 years.

The Awards aim to assist emerging weavers each year to set up in business by providing studio space and business support provided by Cockpit Arts as well as shared use of looms. The selection panel, including the acclaimed ikat weaver and designer Mary Restieaux, and a representative of The Clothworkers’ Foundation, will be looking for up to three individuals who demonstrate entrepreneurial spirit as well as creative excellence and craft skills.

The Award contributes to the cost of a place at Cockpit  for one year from July 2016 and will include a space in a shared studio equipped with 3 looms, Leclerc and Louet, and it offers the following benefits:
• Studio space and use of looms within the creative community of Cockpit Arts at Deptford, London, SE8 with access to office facilities and resource centre.
• Business and professional development services including on-site coaching, a personalised development plan, workshops and seminars.
• A range of selling and promotional opportunities including Cockpit Arts Open Studios selling events twice a year.
• Award worth £2,000 with the remaining £2,000 fee being provided by the Award winners, payable on a monthly basis.

How to Apply:
Please request a “Clothworkers Award” application pack from dana@cockpitarts.com

Deadline for receipt of applications is 5pm Friday 27 May 2016

Interviews with shortlisted applicants will be held on Monday 6 June 2016

Winners will be expected to take part in our Awardee Induction Day on Wednesday 13 July and move into Cockpit Arts Deptford no later than 1 September 2016

London Craft Week 2016

Harris tweed Hebrides

The second edition of London Craft Week will showcase exceptional craftsmanship from around the world through a  programme of 129 events across the city, featuring hidden workshops and unknown makers alongside celebrated masters, famous studios, galleries, shops and luxury brands from 3rd – 7th May 2016.

Weaving events include:
Dashing Tweeds  working on a table top loom to show the basics behind the design and development process used to create their urban cycling reflective tweeds, using unique reflective woollen cloth also known as lumatwill.  Dashing Tweeds specialise in creative woven textiles for menswear, tailoring modern sporting tweeds into ready to wear collections.Dashing Tweeds cloth for CraftW (1)
Lin: The Arts of Taiwanese Rush Weaving : Curated by Native & Co with Chia-En Lu and the Taiwan Yuan-Li Handiwork Association, this exhibition including a workshop explores the craft and techniques behind Taiwanese rush weaving, following its history and rebirth through contemporary design.

Native & Co, London Craft Week 2016With 300 years of history, rush weaving is one of Taiwan’s oldest and most traditional crafts. Lin wild rush grass, is native to the paddy fields of Yuanli in western Taiwan. First used by the Pingpu tribe to weave everyday objects, rush weaving evolved over centuries. At its peak the craft thrived under Imperial Japan, becoming one of Taiwan’s main exported goods. Rush weaving cannot be reproduced by machine and requires immense skill and patience. Chia-En showcases a series of hand-woven rush-weaved baskets, made in collaboration with the Taiwan Yuan-Li Handiwork Association. Each piece is handmade by master weaver Xue-Yun.

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New Weaving Companies: Island of Yell, Shetland

GlobalYell Production pictures - 8Two new companies  have been set up on the Island of  Yell, Shetland; GlobalYell Production and The Shetland Tweed Company. GlobalYell Production is a small to medium scale manufacturing plant using a 24 shaft AVL Industrial Dobby Loom to produce runs of up to 100 m, while The Shetland Tweed Company is a design company which produces tweeds for the fashion industry, and which offers design consultancy.

GlobalYell Production offers woven short and medium runs and is part of GlobalYell which runs residencies and stays for makers. The manufacturing company runs a 24 shaft AVL Industrial Dobby Loom, weaving at 1.5m width and specialises in short and medium length runs with a minimum order of ten metres and a maximum order of fifty metres per bolt. Longer runs can be made through partner mills in Shetland and Scotland.

GlobalYell Production pictures - 13The company works with clients who want bespoke and exclusive fabrics as well as weaving pre-designed cloths for artists, craftspeople, and industry, and partners with design company, The Shetland Tweed Company, also based in Yell, if design consultation is needed. Yarns can be sourced and the lead-time for completed cloth is ten to twelve weeks with professional finishing done in the Borders of Scotland or, if desired, in-house at the studio.

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Select Festival 2016: Soft Engineering

Deirdre Woods Multi interlocking ringsSoft Engineering
Textiles Taking Shape

Alison Ellen, Ann Richards, Deirdre Wood
Dates: Saturday 30 April – Sunday 22 May
Museum in the Park Stratford park Stroud GL5 4AF
Times: Tuesday – Friday 10 am – 5 pm
Saturday and Sunday 11 am – 5 pm
Open Bank Holidays

Soft Engineering brings together, for the first time, the work of three inspiring textile designer makers. Having pursued separate careers in knitting and weaving, they find many common threads that have now inspired them to work together on this joint exhibition. Despite employing different techniques and structures, their approaches interconnect and cross over in intriguing and sometimes surprising ways.

Their passion for textiles shines through the original work that has been specifically created for this fascinating exhibition. Soft Engineering introduces a central theme of textiles that take shape through the interplay of raw material and structure that plays out in varied ways: repetition/displacement of simple shapes, pleating, folding, twisting and double-sided fabrics.

The exhibition will be complemented by workshops and a half day seminar.

Deirdre Wood
Deirdre brings a fresh approach to the ancient technique of strip weaving, with strips that are twisted before being joined by sewing. The result is a cloth that moves into the third dimension, creating geometric pieces designed for architectural settings. Ikat-dyeing brings dynamic movement and extra definition to these abstract forms. Her most recent work breaks new ground as curving strips emerge from the contrasting properties of linen and silk.

Ann Richards
Ann weaves fabrics that are smooth and rectangular on the loom but are transformed when soaked in water. The energy of high-twist wools and silks is released, causing yarns to spiral spontaneously, pleating the fabrics into flexible, textured scarves and clothes. Her latest work, a range of textile jewellery, combines these traditional materials with a silk/steel yarn that gives the fabric a temporary ‘memory’ for additional pleats and folds.Ann Richards Triple Spiral neckpiece large
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Collaboration project: Nadia – Anne Ricketts

Beatie Wolfe, David Mason aka Mr Fish & BeatWoven by Stuart NichollsSeeing music differently in The House of Rock; 34 Montague Square.

A collaboration between woven textile artist Nadia-Anne Ricketts from BeatWoven, musician Beatie Wolfe and Saville Row tailor David Mason of Mr. Fish.

It all began on the night of a book launch; The Digital Handmade : Craftsmanship in the New Industrial Revolution, where both textile artist Nadia-Anne Ricketts and innovative musician Beatie Wolfe were introduced by the author Lucy Johnston . It was the beginning of a collaboration where the five worlds of fashion, music, craft, history and technology would collide to show how music and craft can be worn and seen very differently in a compelling, storytelling way.

ProcessDubbed ‘The Secret Abbey Road’, 34 Montague Square is the former home of Hendrix, McCartney, Lennon and Ono; and the very birthplace of a ‘Wind Cries Mary’ and ‘Eleanor Rigby’.

The basement flat now belongs to savile row tailor, David Mason, an already collaborative partner to Beatie Wolfe. Both were eager to launch both David’s new acquisition; the re-launch of the flamboyant fashion label to the rock stars of the 60’s – Hendrix, Bowie and Jagger to name a few – Mr. Fish; with the release of Beatie’s new album consisted of music lyrics inspired by the very people that inhabited the space fifty years ago.
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Open Day: The London Cloth Company

005Saturday Open Days
Saturday 5th March is the first of their 2016 open days

See how fabrics are woven at The London Cloth Company, learn about the production process, and how their  restored shuttle looms run.

Tours will last approx. an hour, with additional time for questions at the end.

Please arrive 10 minutes before the start time.

Tour times:
10.30am – fully booked
1.00pm – places available
3.00pm – places available

Tickets are £10 / person

To book a place, please email: info@londoncloth.com

Background information:

The London Cloth Company was founded by Daniel Harris in 2011. Having acquired a rusting hand loom from a mill in Wales, he took it apart, put it back together, and taught himself to weave. Within a year he had acquired two further looms, two pern winders and a warping mill, and established the first cloth mill in the capital for over one hundred years.

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RailReed: Adjustable warp density

Juula_Pardi_RailReed_5_modulesRailReed is a new reed invention which can adjust warp density and fabric width while weaving and an alternative to open reed and fan reed, which both have pros and cons in manipulating threads while weaving.

Textile artist and Educator Kadi Pajupuu has invented and built a new type of reed. It consists of sliding modules which lets the weaver adjust the density of warps while weaving and even dramatically change the width of fabric from narrow to wide and back. The reed can be easily attached to a beater.

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