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Jane Harper: Peter Collingwood Trust Award Winner

CraneUsing unusual materials to create three-dimensional woven forms, Jane Harper has pushed the possibilities of what can be achieved within loom based woven art.

With a keen interest in experimentation and the industrial landscape, her work explores alternative ways of creating stable woven structures, which can be stand alone pieces or used within a functional context.

The series ‘Collapsible Construction’ featured, provides innovative means of manipulating interior spaces. The pieces are all woven as one piece on a dobby loom and manipulated post weaving.

Having graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2012, Jane went on to win the Peter Collingwood Trust Award in 2012 for her innovative designs showcased at her degree show. She exhibited at New Designers, has featured in the Interior Design blog as ‘one to watch’ and will soon be exhibiting at the Interweave exhibition at Habitat Platform Gallery, London 2013.

Other images of Jane Harpers woven designs can be found on the following link.

Website: www.janeweaves.com
Contact: Jane Harper

 

 

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1ina100 & Carlotta Finch – Hand Weaving: From Peckham to India

1ina100 and Carlotta Finch present ‘Hand Weaving: From Peckham to India’, an exhibition delving into weaving and celebrating its relationship to the world around us.

The exhibition is at The Sassoon Gallery, 213 Blenhiem Grove, Peckham, London. SE15 4QL. The private view is on 14th Dec 2012 6.00pm – 02.30am and 15th Dec 2012. 11.00 – 6.00pm

In Autumn 2012 1ina100 and Carlotta travelled to India to research current weaving techniques, both old and new, and collaborated with a diverse selection of local rural and urban craftsmen. The goal was to find the best hand weaver to collaborate with on a new 1ina100 project, coming to fruition in 2013. The project will promote Carlotta as an emerging weave designer and will highlight hand weaving as a vanishing skill. The research took the project through the back streets of Hyderabad, Bangalore and Dehli as well as the more rural communities of Tirupati and Leh. The exhibition documents this journey.

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Paris Meets X-Ray Fabric©: Rita Parniczky

Rita Parniczky weaves exclusive hand woven material for interiors and art projects and has developed her innovative material, X-Ray Fabric© since her graduation from Central St Martins in 2009.
She now works on a 24-shaft computer dobby loom from her London-based studio, at Cockpit Arts Deptford.

Rita was recently commissioned by SAS matériO Paris to create a piece for their appearance at the Equipbaie Fair in the French capital this November. Group matériO was showcasing a trend area dedicated to innovation within the solar protection fields. Rita’s work was very well received by both public and industry. Now, this piece will hang in the office and showroom of matériO in Paris. Further samples of X-Ray Fabric© will be included into each material library of matériO across Europe.
Rita, by manipulating the warp threads, creates a translucent structure which quality allows the viewer to look into inner layers of X-Ray Fabric©.


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Exhibition: Contemporary Materials. Artists. Designers. Makers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Teresa Georgallis
Teresa Georgallis is a textile designer specialising in woven fabric for fashion and interiors. In June 2012 she was awarded the Clothworkers’ Foundation Award / Cockpit Arts Award and she is now based at Cockpit Arts Deptford. After graduating from the Royal College of Art she has been working on a series of hand woven interior textiles, fashion accessories and stationary prints. She has developed a collection of luxury bags using her woven textiles combined with leather. All of the bags are one-off pieces designed and made by Teresa in collaboration with a leather craftsman.
www.culturelabel.com/shop/t/teresa-georgallis/
www.teresageorgallis.com


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Philippa Brock. 2D – 3D: Jacquard Woven Textiles Exhibition, Montréal.

The ‘2D – 3D’ exhibition shows Philippa Brock’s ‘Self Fold’ series and her new ‘X- Form’ series.  The series continue to explore her research in to ‘on loom’ finishing techniques which, through the use of yarn properties and layered weave structure combinations result in textiles which 3D form either immediately they come off the loom or with light steaming.

The new  ‘X-Form’ series developed for the Montreal exhibition explore ideas around x-form paper folding techniques and integrate the use of smart yarns in the weft, resulting in works that take on different appearances in both daylight and in UV light.

The ‘X-Form’ series have been developed so no electronics or programming are required and it is the inherent properties of the yarns used which create the smart different qualities of the series. The weft yarns used include phosphorescent and fluorescent.

Philippa Brock is Pathway Leader for Woven Textiles at Central Saint Martins: UAL 3 days a week and has a portfolio design practice, working in both research and the textile industry . She has previously designed e-textiles for clothing, developing conductive woven textile sensors, switches, circuits and actuators, was part of the ‘Nobel Textiles’ project (‘Self Assembly’ series) and ‘Warp Factor 09’ working with yarn provided by the Oji paper fibre company developing the ‘Self Fold’ series. Philippa Brock is also a member of Textile Futures Research Group

The textiles were woven by Philippa Brock at Gainsborough Silk Weaving Company using their Bonas Dataweave loom.

Contacts: The Montreal Centre for Contemporary Textiles

Philippa Brock

 

 

Warp & Weft: Woven Textiles in Fashion, Art and Interiors. Jessica Hemmings

Warp & Weft by Jessica Hemmings explores the world of woven textiles created for fashion, interiors and art. The experimental practice of some of the most exciting international textile artists and designers today, including Lia Cook, Nuno, Liz Williamson and Maggie Orth, reveals the range of interdisciplinary connections that inspire and inform contemporary woven textiles. A rich overview to contemporary weaving, this book is an excellent resource for everyone with an interest in weaving, fashion, interiors and art. The book will be published in Oct 2012.

Jessica Hemmings writes about textiles. She has taught at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, the Rhode Island School of Design, Winchester School of Art and Edinburgh College of Art. In 2010 she edited a collection of essays entitled In the Loop: Knitting Now published by Black Dog and has recently compiled The Textile Reader for Berg (2012) and written Warp & Weft for Bloomsbury (2012). She is currently Professor of Visual Culture and Head of the Faculty of Visual Culture at the National College of Art and Design, Dublin. Continue reading →

The TC2 Jacquard Loom – Digital Weaving Norway


Weaving on the new TC2 – Digital Weaving Norway

Stacey Harvey- Brown had the good fortune to be in Norway, at the factory of Tronrud Engineering where the TC1 and TC2 computer hand-jacquard looms are manufactured. She got to work within the factory environment where the staff were friendly, extremely knowledgeable and listened to the user, creating or adapting equipment directly from weaver feedback.

Vibeke Vestby, the dedicated and inspiring weaver and creator of the TC1 and now the TC2, invited Stacey over to test weave on the TC2 with non-traditional weave techniques to see how well the loom could cope. She reports that the loom coped very well. One or two suggestions were acted on immediately, and modifications were made which improved the weaving experience. The TC2 is a faster loom than its predecessor, which delighted her, as that was probably her main criticism of the TC1. She had found that the TC1 wouldn’t allow getting into a comfortable weaving rhythm when only using one shuttle, and this has been addressed with the TC2. Stacey is a fast weaver with one shuttle, and although the TC2 isn’t quite as fast as she is, she was still able to get into a good weaving rhythm. When you use more than one shuttle, the speed certainly is not an issue.

The action of the loom is smooth. The heddles now lift inside a frame – not dissimilar to traditional jacquard – and there are fewer ends that misbehave. She had 2 that refused to co-operate out of 2640. Stacey has more than that on my baby jacquard sample looms from the 1880s which are completely manual. The curing of that kind of problem is also much easier, and hopes to have more time to investigate this on another visit.

The actual hardware on the TC2 is much less frantic than the TC1. Instead of cables everywhere, there are simple modules with vacuum hoses. The bulk of the electronics are in the side frame so reducing the amount of trailing cables. The design of the frame is cleaner, less industrial and somehow more ‘friendly’.

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Sian O’Doherty – Weave Designer

Perceived Perceptions

Textiles can be a powerful medium for creating illusions enabling artists to design concepts that are different to reality. Sian has been drawn to creating a textile collection that incorporates optical illusions, whereby her creations at second inspection reveal themselves differently, and are not what they first seem.

Her initial inspiration came from Google earth images- drawing reference from the patterns and vibrant colours created by estuaries. Her Welsh heritage is also apparent in many of her designs where she draws reference to historical Welsh textiles.

Fundamental to the body of work, has been the in depth technical exploration of multi layered weave structures combined with colour and the deviation of the expected path of a warp thread. Hand manipulated distortions rise and fall from structurally patterned ground weaves, emphasised by carefully considered bands of contrasting colour. Incredibly labour- intensive to produce, there is also no scope for errors. Impossible to commercially produce in volume they are a celebration of hand created textiles.

Keeping in mind the aspect of optical illusions Sian digitally developed her woven creations into new patterns that would be impossible literally to weave, but significantly look like weaves. She utilises modern technology to develop her woven creations into new dimensions, thus providing opportunities for maintaining handmade crafts yet with the possibilities of mass production.

Sian hopes to create a visual technical challenge that tricks the viewer when observing her designs, which she intends to be used primarily for interiors, both functional and aesthetic.
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Woolmark Relaunches ‘Cool Wool’ for Summer – Philippa Watkins

Visitors to Première Vision could’nt resist a smile at the (by now iconic) Woolmark image of a flock of stylishly ‘cool’ Merino sheep in Ray-Ban shades, which met them at the entrance.

The image really set the scene, for the re-launch of Cool Wool, drawing buyers and designers to the wealth of lightweight wools on show, and putting wool firmly back on the map as an elegant, yet functional fabric for spring garments, which keeps cool in hot weather. Merino wool’s natural breathable and thermal-management properties really do make it highly suitable for warmer climates.

This is all part of the efforts to bring wool back into favour, after many years when all promotional activity of woollen products had been stopped.  Wool, without promotion had a difficult time losing a lot of its market share, despite the many new developments which had brought finer softer merino wools in knitwear and wovens – which just proved how important marketing is.

Now ‘The Campaign for Wool’ www.campaignforwool.org is making up for lost time, and AWI (Australian Wool Innovation) is putting huge efforts into rebranding wool.  The Cool Wool relaunch is one such promotion to inform what wool can be. Another is the Woolmark Company’s new “Wool Lab” project, which is a seasonal guide to the best wool fabrics and yarns, which is proving to be an extremely effective tool, identifying inspirational wool trends for the fashion industry, including brands, retailers, manufacturers, spinners and weavers. It’s well worth getting your Ray-Bans on to have a look…..

‘Contemporary Weaving Patterns’ – Margo Selby

Margo Selby has written her first book. ‘Contemporary Weaving Patterns – weaving with colour and texture’. The book was launched on 15th December 2011 and includes 150 different fabric ideas that can be created over 25 warps. Margo will be selling signed copies in her studio, shop and gallery in Bloomsbury as well as through her online store.

Over the last decade, Margo Selby has been developing fabric constructions and textures on handlooms and then taking these into production for distribution to her own shop and studio and to outlets all over the world

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