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Beatwoven: Nadia-Anne Ricketts

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As a part of The Southbank’s summer festival The Festival of Love and the London Philharmonic Orchestra’s (LPO) year long festival, Rachmaninoff: Inside Out, Nadia-Anne Ricketts was commissioned to create a textile art piece for the Royal Festival Hall interpreting Rachmaninoff Piano Concerto No. 2. This was used within David Lean’s award winning 1945 love film Brief Encounter, which was screened at the Hall in August, and was accompanied by a newly commissioned orchestral soundtrack played by the LPO itself.

She has also designed  a small capsule collection  of woven textiles with three design variations, which show how one song can be translated into a handful of designs, either literally or abstract. These are currently available to purchase at The Southbank Centre.

At her London design studio, BeatWoven, Ricketts has designed a bespoke audio software program that translates any played music into visual patterns, especially for weaving. “Similar to that of a very granulated, broken down sound wave, it inspects and discovers the patterns happening within the sound wave.”

For the commissioned piece, she started by playing the Rachmaninoff concerto over and over through the software to analyse and become familiar with the patterns. Though the basic colour palette was determined by the interior design of the Royal Festival Hall, where it will be installed, Ricketts also uses her previous performing experience to connect with the music, juxtaposed with extensive research for each song, including the artist, genre, era and story behind its composition, to ultimately choose colour combinations and yarns. “When designing my musical textile pieces I feel that I am expressing my passion for music in a visual way, rather than as a dance performance. The designing and making process becomes my visual music performance”.
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GoodWeave Founder Wins Nobel Peace Prize

GoodWeaveThe Norwegian Nobel Committee has awarded the 2014 peace prize to Kailash Satyarthi and Malala Yousafzai, two individuals who have staked their lives on the belief that children, regardless of gender, geography, faith, caste or social circumstance, belong in classrooms. Kailash Satyarthi is the founder of the GoodWeave international rug certification scheme, which works to end child labour in the rug industry and which is active in the UK.

GoodWeave is an international non-profit organisation that aims to stop child labour in the rug industry and to replicate its market-based approach in other sectors. In the UK there are 16 GoodWeave rug designers and importers which are signed up to child-labour-free rugs and the GoodWeave label, including The Rug Company, Matthew Wailes, Jacaranda Carpets, Bazaar Velvet and Deirdre Dyson.

From the cocoa fields of Côte d’Ivoire to the carpet sheds of Uttar Pradesh, there are 168 million children around the world who toil in obscurity. In the announcement from Oslo, Committee chairman Thorbjorn Jagland said: “Showing great personal courage, Kailash Satyarthi, maintaining Gandhi’s tradition, has headed various forms of protests and demonstrations, all peaceful, focusing on the grave exploitation of children for financial gain.”

GoodWeave2In the 1980s, Kailash Satyarthi began rescuing children from bondage. As chairman of the South Asian Coalition on Child Servitude, he fought against child slavery one factory at a time, one child at a time. He conducted rescue raids and liberated children who were enduring extreme violence, some brutally beaten if they ever tried to escape. Following one such raid, Satyarthi personally returned a trafficked boy to his home village. When he went to board a train home, Satyarthi saw dozens and dozens of children destined for the looms in the hands of middlemen. Arrested for causing a disturbance at the station, Satyarthi suddenly realised that this situation required a larger solution. “Something else had to be done. I thought, ‘Consumers have to be educated!’” Satyarthi said in a 2013 interview

This realisation was for him a turning point, and for the child labour movement a profound shift in thinking and strategy. In addition to exposing the ugly truth behind beautiful rugs, Satyarthi set out to establish a certification system that would incentivise manufacturers to stop exploiting children as well as guide consumer purchases. Thus the RugMark label, later to become GoodWeave, was born and the first certified carpets were exported from India in 1995.

Today, GoodWeave works in the top consumer capitals of the world and in the key rug-producing areas across Asia, expanding most recently to Afghanistan. Its programmes in weaving villages near Kabul, Mazar and soon Herat are reaching girls, many of whom resemble Malala. In the two decades since Satyarthi’s jail cell, the organisation has gone on to reduce the number of “rug kids” in the region by two-thirds.

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Profile: Humphries Weaving Company

Silk & Cotton Damask WeavingHumphries Weaving Company has launched a new ‘intuitive’ website to showcase its celebrated fabrics and weaving techniques to its clients. This is supported by a new branding initiative to highlight the company’s illustrious heritage and unique position in the market.

Humphries Weaving is a leading British manufacturer of custom Jacquard fabrics who combine historical knowledge with innovative weaving techniques of today to produce  fabric for Royal residences, historic properties and luxury private homes.

Director Richard Humphries states: “We have bid a fond farewell to our firm’s first trademark, Hannah the Weaver, who has been gracing our pages since the early 1970’s, to introduce our classic new branding to our valued clients.”

Following six months of intensive planning and research, the user focused website aims to display the exceptional quality of the work undertaken by Humphries Weaving to ensure clients get the most from their creative collaboration with the company.

Richard states “We planned the website and branding around our core values, our history and our firmly established position within the industry, letting the work for which we are renowned speak for itself.

“It gives a unique insight into the vast catalogue of historic and contemporary projects that we have had the privilege to work on. Also, for the first time, it brings together visual elements with important project information to give clients a fascinating insight into the design process.”

For more details contact:  fabrics@humphriesweaving.co.uk

Images & text : Humphries Weaving

 

Exhibition: Common Threads

British Council, Common Thread exhibition, photograph by simon mills high 8 The Anou Residencies
In a new British Council residency programme, UK-based designer Sabrina Kraus López  lived with Anou artisans in the Atlas Mountains, collaborating on new designs and approaches based on the Amazigh’s traditional weaving techniques.

Over a one-month period Sabrina worked with six artisans to create the Common Thread collection, a series of bespoke hand woven rugs inspired by the Berber’s heritage, surroundings and personal stories.

Through exchanging stories and knowledge, six-limited edition contemporary rugs have been created that each celebrate and draw inspiration from the artisan’s own culture and personal background.

These rugs also form the basis of an exhibition specially curated by Faculty (Moira Lascelles and Kieren Jones) at Designjunction during the London Design Festival 2014. The exhibition will tell the story of the residency and the rugs and will include a film by Simon Mills and a publication designed by Laura Gordon.
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The Blodwen Heritage Blanket Project

Blodwen 010 _hiBlodwen, the on-line lifestyle brand specialising in the design and manufacture of hand-crafted
luxury homewares,textiles and furniture – made in Wales, is launching a new textile collection
inspired by the discovery of a historical archive of Welsh blanket patterns dating from the 1700’s.

The Collection is part of the Heritage Blanket Project – a community initiative designed to
celebrate the ‘Craft and Industry of the Weaver’. It aims to resurrect historical patterns into a
range of contemporary textiles – each with a unique story to tell.

Using digital visualisation and virtual sampling technologies together with contemporary
yarns,colourways and finishes, the Project is an illustration of Blodwen’s on-going commitment
to the design and manufacture of unique homewares which fuse time-honoured skills with
modern craftsmanship.

Blodwen’s first Heritage Collection offers a range of blankets, throws, quilts and
cushions – all revived from age-old hand-drawn designs. The textiles are made from 100% pure
new wool and woven at Blodwen’s 180 year old mill in the Teifi Valley, on its original 1930’s
Dobcross looms.Blodwen IMG_0008 copyBlodwen IMG_0002 copy

The ‘Hiraeth’ (Longing) blanket is a bold geometric chequer-board design in monochrome and red. The ‘Pinwheel’ blanket is inspired by the name given to the most iconic of traditional Welsh Quilt designs, and comes in a striking indigo and red.

Both blankets feature an embroidered panel with a verse taken from the book and written by the weaver. Continue reading →

Profile: Beatrice Larkin

Beatrice Larkin 2Beatrice Larkin is a London based woven textile designer. After finishing her MA in Textile Design at The Royal College of Art, Bea has been focussing on starting up her own textile design business.

She has most recently been part of The Craft Council’s Hot House scheme for emerging makers and a recipient of The Cockpit Arts/Clothworkers Foundation Award 2014.

This year she has exhibited work at The Heals Modern Craft Market and the touring Rising Stars exhibition as well spending six weeks teaching fashion and textiles at The International Institute of Fine Arts, India.

By using traditional Dobby weaving alongside the capabilities of the computerised Jacquard loom Beatrice manipulates her hand drawings, offsetting patterns and scales to meet unexpectedly and blurring lines to create fabrics with a distinctively soft and sympathetic take on geometric textile design. Continue reading →

Permutations: Theo Wright

permutations press comboCoventry-based weaver Theo Wright has been awarded funding by the National Lottery through Arts Council England for a new project, Permutations.

This Grants for the Arts award will fund the development of new handwoven work for interior display, based on mathematical ideas in the area of combinatorics, looking specifically at the 24 permutations of four symbols.

Theo is best known for his handwoven scarves, some of which (such as the Symmetry scarf pictured) are also inspired by mathematics.
The finished textiles will be exhibited in June 2015 at the New Brewery Arts gallery in Cirencester alongside work by other makers from the Crafts Council Hothouse programme.

Combinatorics is an area of discrete mathematics that, loosely speaking, looks at the counting, ordering and combining of objects, and how sets of objects that meet certain criteria can be analysed and generated. It has applications in many areas, from calculating poker odds to bell ringing, from generating Pascal’s triangle to solving Rubik’s cube.

With a first degree in Computer Science followed by another in Textile Design 30 years later, it is perhaps unsurprising that Theo takes a distinctive systematic approach to his weaving.

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Looms for hire: Birmingham

loom_flyer2Situated in the converted Old Print Works on the outskirts of Birmingham City Centre, the looms were rescued in pieces from a local further education college that was downsizing its textiles department and a small dedicated group of Weavers and helpers have restored the looms back to working order.  The looms are available to hire, there is one novice weaver who can give basic assistance in warping and tieing on and 2 experienced weavers/weave graduates who could be available on advanced notice. Ideally weavers who hire the facility need to be competent to work on their own but do contact to discuss any requirements to see if they can be accomadated.

For further information about the Works and its location visit: www.oldprintworks.org


Fiorete Group : The magic fabric

Fiorete logoFiorete began its production in 1934 at Como, Italy specialising in the production of interior decorative fabrics, using the natural fibres of the time such as silk and cotton. By 1950 they were the first company to use synthetic fibres. At Fiorete, they have been constantly innovating and investing in R&D and in their production system.

Fiorete have created a system of refined domotics which include a yarn warehouse that is fully automatised and bidirectional connections between the weaving plants and management system. They feel they are a leading company in quality innovation gaining the Seri.co certification and OEKO-TEX.

Fiorete fabrics has been used in well known projects, by leading designers and architects in and around the world such as; Aria Sky Suites by Peter Marino, Las Vegas, The Burj Khalifa Armani Hotel, Dubai and the Nhow Hotel by Karim Rashid, Berlin.

With this spirit of constant innovation, search for new development and after three years of intensive studies, Fiorete have developed a new technology which allows weaving and integrating optical fibers on jacquard looms.
Fiorete Magic Sofa 2low resFiorete Magic Sofa 1low res

The optical fibre is a thin strand of glass or synthetic cable that carry light from one end to the other, without light in its length. The optical fibre filters out ultraviolet rays and infrared, does not transmit heat thus it is inflammable and can be immersed in liquid, making it one of the safest materials to use. It is compact, fan-less, has high light output, multicolour illuminators that requires almost no maintenance and is extremely energy efficient.

Its versatility makes it today, the most suitable alternative lighting systems where until recently was not possible to achieve better results in the desired colour definition that can be used for a multitude of lighting applications in home decoration and interior architectures. Due to these features it is now used in various sectors such as exhibitions, various types of industries, the arts and crafts, museums and scenography just to name a few.

The starting point for Fiorete was the vision to explore all the possibilities given by this new generation yarn such as the optical fibre, normally used in other fields and industries and to find an application to the industrial textile world. They were very excited in to be able to control light while giving radiance to our fabrics. In other words bringing “life” into fabrics.
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Profile: Catarina Riccabona

C_Riccabona 2Catarina Riccabona is a London-based textile designer / weaver. Originally from Austria she came to London to work in publishing, but after some time decided to change her career.

She did a Foundation Course at Chelsea College of Art and Design followed by a BA (Hons)  in Textile Design at Central Saint Martins where she specialised in woven textiles. Catarina started her own textile design business upon joining Cockpit Arts in May 2012. She is also a recipient of the Cockpit Arts/Clothworkers’ Foundation Award 2012/13.

Using traditional hand-weaving techniques Catarina designs and makes woven fabrics for scarves, cushions and throws. Each piece is made from start to finish in her Deptford studio. Her distinct aesthetic language is informed by a sound ecological concept based on a strict selection of yarns.

Main image photography by Gareth Hacker, courtesy of The New Craftsmen.
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